In Print: Clips from Food Sections

ph20090329015035. – The Chicago Tribune The Finishing Touch “You’ve pulled together your favorite recipes for the many meals that fill the eight days of Passover, the holiday marking the Exodus of the Jewish people from slavery in Egypt. Your special charoset, that fruit-nut mix for the Seder plate. The garlic-perfumed roast chicken recipe from Aunt Ruth. Maybe the potato kugel you had at your cousin Edie’s last Passover. Oh, yes, and you better do your “famous” brisket or there will be grousing from the children.”

4. – The Boston Globe Rites of Spring “On the Passover and Easter tables, lamb is an ancient tradition. The meat is closely associated with Passover; later Christians made the Passover lamb a symbol of Jesus.”

3. – The LA Times Food Scientists works alongside chefs to dream up new ideas “Russin is holding a blowtorch to a disk of what looks like lemon-yellow Jell-O, except that it’s made with gellan gum instead of gelatin. He keeps blasting away at it, in the interest of demonstrating its heat-resistant properties (gellan gum is produced by bacteria discovered on a lily pad in Pennsylvania in the 1970s). ‘If you’ve ever blowtorched gelatin, it’s a horrible, horrible thing,’ he says. But the gel in his pan looks generally unfazed; the sugar is starting to caramelize, but the disk is otherwise holding its shape.”

2. – The NY Times How I Learned to Love Goat Meat “Mine is the tale of the recent convert. Admittedly, I’m late to the party: goat is the most widely consumed meat in the world, a staple of, among others, Mexican, Indian, Greek and southern Italian cuisines. Moreover, it’s been edging its way into yuppier climes for a year or so now, click-clacking its cloven hooves up and down the coasts and to places like Houston and Des Moines. (When New York magazine proclaimed eating goat a “trendlet” last summer, one reader wrote on the magazine’s Web site, “Here are white people again!!!! Acting like they invented goat meat.”) A famed beef and pork rancher, Bill Niman, returned from retirement to raise goats in Bolinas, Calif.; New York City has a chef (Scott Conant) who’s made kid his signature dish.”

1. – The Washington Post Seder with a Catch “At Passover, a seasoned cook’s thoughts turn to brisket. It’s only natural; foods for a crowd that can be readied ahead characterize much of Jewish cookery, as Jayne Cohen wisely points out in ‘The Gefilte Variations.’ However, braised beef with a rich sauce does not sing a song of spring, nor does it cater to the collegiate who has come home for the holidays with a newly meatless agenda.”

photo from The Washington Post


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