In Print: Clips from Food Sections

ph200903170055915. – The Chicago Tribune Down on the Fish Farm “Advances in aquaculture, the process by which seafood is farmed from start to finish under controlled conditions like beef or poultry, means that shrimp can and are swimming in the Arizona desert, thanks to the Desert Sweet Shrimp company of Gila Bend. And perch are now being reared on what was once an Indiana farm field by Bell Aquaculture.”

4. – The Boston Globe Economy of Scales “This is one of seven drop-off points for Port Clyde Fresh Catch, which is a community-supported fishery: Participants sign up, pay a lump sum for the season, then receive a weekly share of seafood caught by the members of the Midcoast Fishermen’s Cooperative. Pioneered here last year, the idea is spreading through Maine and beyond, with a CSF in the works for the Gloucester area that could ultimately serve Boston as well.”

3. – The LA Times Waiting Tables is an Art “Good waiters — no, they haven’t disappeared, no matter how it might seem to anyone who has felt like just another check average. Meet old school: Vladimir Bezak, Manny Felix, Sergio Guerra and Pablo Zelaya. Among them, they have provided more than 100 years of service to countless diners across Los Angeles, their days measured in ice-cold dry martinis and perfectly cooked medium-rare steaks. Wars (including those against calories and carbohydrates) have been waged, presidents (and chefs) have come and gone, and meanwhile, they’ve looked after their customers down to the last detail, special requests indulged, cups of coffee refilled.”

2. – The NY Times With Fewer Pots to Stir, Competition Rises Among Cooks “James Lenzi, a chef who is opening a restaurant near Columbia University, recently posted an ad on Craigslist for an assistant. Salary: $25,000 a year with no benefits. ‘The résumés started pouring in,’ he said. ‘Hundreds of them. Chefs, managers, people who’ve worked at the best restaurants in New York.’ Nine of the 300 applicants had Ph.D.’s., he said. ‘I can’t stop thinking about what’s going to happen to them.’ “

1. – The Washington Post Perfect Chicken: Flaws and All “Unlike many of Keller’s detailed, involved recipes, his roast-chicken technique is so simple that he can recite it in its entirety without stopping to draw breath: Clean the chicken, season it inside and out, rub it with butter, truss it and roast it at 425 degrees. It is as simple as that. Or is it? Keller’s reasons for not subjecting chicken to a more precise way of cooking are mainly personal. For him, as for so many others, roast chicken is a dish that, like Proust’s madeleine, has personal and cultural importance more than objective culinary value. To some, hearing Keller admit that he prefers his chicken roasted the old-fashioned way might be equal to catching a sushi chef searing his fish on both sides. It can be viewed as heresy, or as a reminder that one of the world’s leading chefs is a human being, too, and that he will sometimes let his guard down and allow food to just be food.”

photo from The Washington Post

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Filed under Food, News, Outside DC, Restaurants

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